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San Felipe

The word that most readily comes to mind when describing San Felipe is "unpretentious." Whether its the people or the town itself, what you see is what you get!

A 2 1/2 hour drive from California's south eastern border with Mexico finds you in this desert town framed by sea and mountains. Its population, according to a census taken in 2005, suggests there were 9,263 people living in San Felipe. Its actual population however, is rather problematic since the census did not take into account the many foreigners, mostly U.S retirees, living there. In addition, many Mexican nationals from other parts of the country migrate to San Felipe and other Baja California cities for better wages.

San Felipe is historically a fishing village and though both commercial and private (panga) fishing remain the prevailing industry, construction is fast overtaking it as the preferred means of employment.

The "Welcome to San Felipe" sign at the entrance to town begins the commercial/tourist district, an area approximately 2 miles long and 1 mile wide. At its end is the malecon, the seawall paralleling the beach and the Sea of Cortez. For all practical purposes the malecon, with its many nightclubs, restaurants and curio shops, is the tourist hub. It's here most public festivals and activities take place.

North and south of town are the campos and residential communities where most foreigners live.

On either side of the tourist area are the barrios. These economically depressed communities are reminders that Mexico is, after all, a third world country. Let me caution however, that while these communities may be economically depressed, they are in no way depressing; for here beats the pulse of the city. Here are the common folk: those hard working, family oriented, uncomplicated individuals who compose the rhythm of daily life. Easy to laugh and fun loving, they maintain a healthy respect for their traditons and beliefs, accept life on its own terms and find their own happiness. They Are San Felipe!

And yet, the winds of change are in the air. For years a minor tourist destination, signs are clear San Felipe is now on the verge of becoming a major one. But for that to happen there must first be a change in its physical appearance to meet the expectations of foreign tourists. Whether that change, now underway, is good news or bad depends on one's perspective. In fact, it's fair to say very few issues revolve around such simplistic and absolute terms as good and bad. A more dispassionate view of the matter is apt to find in it both good and bad elements. In the end, it is the soul of a community, rather than the relative wealth of its members or the exquisitiveness of its features, that defines the character of that community. Using that criteria San Felipe has, for now, great reason to be proud. Time alone will determine its future.

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